Hottest wettest angriest vintage
No sweat on Old Plains Shiraz
Ancient strugglers play heat cool
by PHILIP WHITE
"You’d think nothing could survive out there on some
of those days."
Tim Freeland is one winemaker who doesn't mind
acknowledging vintage realities.
He's a partner of Dominic Torzi, whose winery DRINKSTER chose
as last year's best value Australian producer.
For those who weren't here, it really did feel like
nothing could survive. We had two heatwaves. On January 16th Adelaide was
confirmed as the hottest city in the world. We had five days in a row above 42°C. From January
13th to the 17th daily temperatures were 12°C or more above normal. It hit 45.1°C
on the 14th.
And then it rained. Absolutely
pissed down. We suddenly had the wettest 24-hour period since 1969 and
the fifth-wettest Adelaide day on record, when 75.2mm fell.
Parts of the Ranges
took 130mm and more. Utterly parched berries sucked that up til they split,
then that raw exposed sugar caught the moulds and funguses and growers watched
their incomes turn to mush.
Like the wettest vintage
on record, 2011, the better operators managed to squeeze through this sickening
roller coaster.
"We started picking for Old Plains and Torzi
Freeland International on Feb 9th," Tim said, "... directly
after the heat on a cool Sunday morning. We’ve bought in 22 tonnes of Old
Plains old vine Shiraz, from four different vineyards at Penfield Gardens and
Angle Vale."
That photograph above shows a fine example: thick tough old skins; no splits.
These are the precious remnant vineyards of the Adelaide
Plains vignoble, which is largely eaten by droll villa rash: eave-to-eave
dormitoria.
"The old bastards gave us steady Baumés from 13 to
14," he said. "They held up really well in the heat, tough old buggers:
thick skin. They trucked through ferment, plenty of dark colour, aromatic,
spice. Basket pressed and barrelled down last Sunday. Just finishing off
ferment in barrel."
That covers the partners' Plains growers. But heading
uphill, their news is still encouraging.
"The One Tree Hill/Bibaringa/Uleybury stuff looks to
have pulled through," he continued.
"It's pretty free-draining up there. Everything seems really fresh
after that rain. The vines have picked up, even putting on some new growth. We'll
take 20 tonnes off there this Thursday and Friday.
"Even the Lenswood Pinot Gris looks okay at this
stage." Lenswood took 130mm in the
deluge. "There's no splitting, but
the same grower has some split on other varieties that were more advanced."
If you must touch wood, make it a two-year-old Vosges puncheon, attagal.
2 comments:
you hear that mollydooker nonsense on the abc this morning whitey they never ever had a imperfect vintage did they always a hundred percent with god on their side
http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-02-18/nrn-sa-grapes/5266810 is a bit better balance
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