“Sod the wine, I want to suck on the writing. This man White is an instinctive writer, bloody rare to find one who actually pulls it off, as in still gets a meaning across with concision. Sharp arbitrage of speed and risk, closest thing I can think of to Cicero’s ‘motus continuum animi.’

Probably takes a drink or two to connect like that: he literally paints his senses on the page.”


DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little, Ludmila’s Broken English, Lights Out In Wonderland ... Winner: Booker prize; Whitbread prize; Bollinger Wodehouse Everyman prize; James Joyce Award from the Literary & Historical Society of University College Dublin)


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16 February 2014

ADELAIDE HAS A NEW FISH PALACE

The  cleanest, best-managed  fisheries in the Great Southern Ocean lap the shores of Adelaide and South Australia, but for years there's been a dearth of great fish restaurants - everything is exported.  Peter (above) and Caroline Louca are setting this shit straight at their Louca's Seafood Grill at 242 Hutt Steet in the Paris Quarter of the city. Peter's the son of the revered Mario of the Parade Fish Cafe in Norwood. Eight fishy wine nuts  went to Louca's last night, having booked in advance, begging Peter to bake us a couple of big'uns.  We took wines not usually associated with fish, but Peter's beautiful snappers, with befores and afters [10/10], sang perfect shanties with our tricky BYOs, which were not on his list. And his list is not to be snorted at.  Arrange, call, surrender: (08) 8232 6792. Or just GO.


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