10 November 2016
KEEPING YOUR GINGER UP
Gingery drinks booming in Oz:
even Coke's in on the act ...
but is ginger is
the new black?
by PHILIP WHITE
It may not
be in your short black yet, but ginger's won the hearts of the sweet tooths and
professors of likkerature at Coca-Cola. Or its vital statistics have. Reacting
to the news that ginger-flavoured drinks increased six per cent in sales in
Australia in the last year, Coke is releasing a new product here and in New
Zealand: Coca-Cola Ginger.
As the sales
of non-alcoholic fizzy drinks slump the kiddylikker shelves sway on from the
weight of the sugary alcoholic monoculture in liquor barns everywhere. While
even the bursting cider fridges offer three or four new brands each time you
visit, they're pretty much the same old same old flavours concocted hyper-sweet
from frozen apple juice concentrate from China.
Apple in
Coke? Nah. These Very Big Cokefolk are banking on ginger.
Without
alcohol, for starters.
Imagine the conversations the marketing
haircuts had around that big table: Ginger!?!
In Coke? "But look at the numbers, Xzayvianne, the numbers ... we'll call it Limited Edition!"
The bottle
looks pretty much like a Coke bottle, but the maker points out that "it's
distinct, with premium gold used throughout the labels and bottle caps to both
highlight the exclusivity of the product and also to differentiate it from the
core Coke range ... this summer our focus is on helping Aussies make those
special moments even more enjoyable and the launch of Coca-Cola Ginger is the first
step towards this goal."
This is what
transnational wine companies call "premiumising". It's like
"weaponising".
Australia's
largest ginger producer, Buderim Group, of Queensland's Sunshine Coast, is
flush with fresh funds from companies owned by Kevin Rudd's son-in-law, Albert
Tse. Welcomed as an aid to "chase a bigger share of the Chinese retail
sector" that injection of $AUD 26.1 million bought Tse 23 per cent of the
listed company.
harvesting Buderim ginger ... photo supplied
While their
ginger is amongst the best in the world, wildly-ranging prices and bad farming weather
- like floods and cyclones - had given the Queensland ginger growers hell in recent
years. As housing eats into the scarce free-draining volcanic loams required
for growing the tricky rhizome, Buderim's suddenly changing gears, adding value
to the local ginger it can get with a range of condiments, sweets and drinks,
both alcoholic and not.
They have
non-alcoholic Ginger Beer & Pear and Ginger Beer & Guarana, which
they're backing up with 4.5 per cent alcohol Ginger Beer & Vodka and Ginger
Beer & Spiced Rum.
They've even
adopted a racy cursive logo whose font reminds me of Coca-Cola.
I'm keen to
see how sweet they are. Queensland has lots of sugar. I suspect new products at
standard kiddylikker sweetness would make more sense if the drinker had a more
austere, perhaps more overtly gingery drink to aspire to. It seems to me that as
well as most of the new products emergent, a drier, more grown-up sort of
offering would appeal to a market already accustomed to gingery Asian cuisine.
"We use
real ginger roots to get our flavour," Buderim's marketing manager, Jacqui
Price promises. And when I push: "Coke's not buying any ginger from
us."
Which
Angove's certainly do. As longstanding licensed Australian maker of Stone's
Green Ginger Wine, the big Riverlander buys endless tonnes of semi-dried Buderim
ginger root in bales which it steeps in its own neutral wine spirit to extract
a powerful essence used to fortify their sweet base wine.
Pushed by
such new beverage industry interest in ginger, I bought a bottle of the old
fisherman's stalwart Stone's Green Ginger in BWS for $10. Contrary to popular
suspicion, your standard Stone's is not all that strong. It's only 13.9 per
cent. While it smells of sweet fresh-harvest ginger, it seems to have a lot
more overt primary grapey fruit than I recall from the olden days. I suspect
the base wines were more oxidised in the past, like in vermouth. While still
very sweet, that wall of sultry, slightly fiery ginger seems to dry the finish
as it warms the gizzard and spirit.
Stone's
favour amongst fishermen is not simply due to its remarkable capacity to give
one that comforting illusion of warmth, but because of ginger's historical efficacy
in easing motion sickness while its vitamin C combats scurvy.
From whence comes the old sailor's adage: "Keep your ginger up."
I could
still schlück it eagerly from the
bottle in a chill stiff sea, but on ice in a whisky glass Stone's seems too
sweet. Try adding some soda, and/or vodka or whisky to suit your taste. Lemon
juice makes it seem drier. Garnish with slices of lemon and fresh ginger.
Pity, I
think, to have a drink you like that you need to take away from, not add to.
It seemed an
obvious step on from the fortified Stone's when Angove's launched their sweet brewed alcoholic
ginger beer fifteen years back. Maybe twenty. From the start I loved it on the
rocks with vodka or gin but I found its bouquet tickled the old asthma: perhaps
all its healthy natural yeast got up my nose. Many of the current ginger beers
which have been brewed do the same. Having inhaled live yeast in my line of
work for forty years, I'm growing an allergy to it.
The current
Stone's Ginger Beer (4.8% alcohol) seems barely gingery to my blistered hooter,
but triggered no asthma. The Matso's Ginger Beer (3.5% alcohol) brewed in Perth
for the Broome Brewery seems less yeasty, more gingery while still gentle, and
perhaps less sweet. I like it. It has particular finesse.
Speaking of
"premiumising" there's also the Stone's Sparkling Ginger Joe from
Angoves, at 8% alcohol. This brew has a more pickled gingery edge, a sort of
honeyed, autumnal fragrance which carries smoothly through the aged ginger
marmalade nature of its flavour. Its heat comes more from alcohol than ginger.
freshly-washed new harvest Buderim ginger ... photo supplied
"Our new
ginger beers are not brewed but are made by steeping the ginger roots,"
Jacqui said of the new Buderims.
Apart from
its fortification against motion sickness, the medicinal attributes of the Zingiber officianale rhizome and stalk
are many. Depending on the research you prefer to accept, ginger's natural gingerols, shogaols and zingibain can assuage
colds, flu, fever, tetanus, leprosy, vertigo, indigestion, abdominal cramps,
and arthritis. It’s sedative,
anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory.
You can see
some of this in Buderim's herbal.
In the
meantime, trust Unca Philip. Zingiber is good for you. Along with chilli and
garlic, it is an essential part of my standard medicinal vegetal diet. Sometimes,
I munch fresh ginger root like apples. When it comes to cooking, or drinking, I
love to keep some fresh ginger juice in the fridge. Buy the early-harvest,
fresh root with the smoothest skin: the more aged gnarly stuff is so high in
fibre it's good sliced in cooking but it'll fry your juicer. Juicer smoke
stinks.
Splash some
raw juice in the wok with your stir; add some to your chicken broth. Ask
Cheong.
I have seen
no research into how much of these good bits survive steeping in alcohol or
indeed brewing, or what sliver of Zingiber's efficacy might have found in its
way into the new Coke, but I can promise you a shot of fresh raw juice leaves
nothing to the imagination.
Or the
constitution.
In lieu of
sugar-free pre-mixed ginger drinks try using a teaspoonful of the juice of
fresh Buderim ginger here and there in your cocktails. Ice, ginger juice,
vodka, soda and a dribble of melted honeywater with lemon, lime and a fresh
ginger garnish may not frighten you off. Play around. You can do it.
But be
warned: it's dragon milk for well-blazed hellbillies. Specially with a dribble
of nuclear chilli juice.
Buderim sponsors The Gingernet ... top and bottom photos by Philip White
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