“Sod the wine, I want to suck on the writing. This man White is an instinctive writer, bloody rare to find one who actually pulls it off, as in still gets a meaning across with concision. Sharp arbitrage of speed and risk, closest thing I can think of to Cicero’s ‘motus continuum animi.’

Probably takes a drink or two to connect like that: he literally paints his senses on the page.”


DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little, Ludmila’s Broken English, Lights Out In Wonderland ... Winner: Booker prize; Whitbread prize; Bollinger Wodehouse Everyman prize; James Joyce Award from the Literary & Historical Society of University College Dublin)


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09 July 2014

OLIVIER KRUG AT PENFOLDS MAGILL ESTATE

Milton Wordley photograph

Olivier Krug gave a deadly dinner at Penfolds Magill Estate restaurant in the vineyard overlooking Adelaide last night ... personal highlights were the ravishing ethereal florals of the Krug Clos de Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2003 with snacks and bread (this brilliant Chardonnay reminds me somehow of the cucumbers in Issey Miyake); the scary fist in the velvet glove of Krug 2003 with ocean trout, potato salad and sea herbs; the sense-sousing pomegranate and chalk of Krug Rosé with quail, ginger beer and coriander; the wild sullen broodiness of the Penfolds Grange 1993 - the Ash Wednesday vintage of disastrous bushfire and flood - and the stalwart glory of Krug Grande Cuvée to finish, with mandarin, chocolate and carrot. They forced me to drink several of those when I arrived, come to think of it. That always helps. I finally ran for the car clutching my little take-away chocolate box, with artichoke, apple, honey and Penfolds Great Grandfather tawny dribbling wickedly down inside me, the beautiful winter rain whooshing about outside ... you couldn't get a better man for the job.

That's our job list above, and below, the great Henri Krug (1937-2013) showing Monnie Jansons how Grand Cuvée is built at Krug in 1992 ...photos Philip White ... and the Krug delivery truck in the winery courtyard in a leafy street in Reims
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Penfolds winemaker Steve Lienert with whizzer Magill Estate châtelaine Jane Gibbs and Olivier ... the Whites listen with their mouths full, bottom ... photos by Milton Wordley

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