Corey Vandeleur's hand by Edwin Niczynski
Bellevue Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012
$19; 14% alcohol; screw cap; 93+++ points
The 2011 version of this won the ol' drinkster's heart
then went on to win hat-trick gongs at the national Boutique Wine Awards and is
only just now beginning its ascent. This one, a more conventional wine in every way
other than its sublime quality - it was a much more conventional vintage - has
just won Best Value Shiraz Under $25 retail at The Edinburgh Cellars Shiraz
Challenge. The other Ed winner, the Torbreck Factor, is $120. Snigger. You
don't get more honest or lovely wine than this. It's a bit thick first thing in the
morning, maybe a bit blocky, but last night and the night before it was creamy
and silky and caressing. It was grown and made in the main street of McLaren
Vale. Right across the street from Elbow Room, come to think of it. In marine
limestone. On the family block by Corey Vandeleur. It's like a sinful
syrup-filled lozenge, whimpering for a big stack of field mushrooms, or thin
slices of rare veal liver with morel cream sauce. Like it's royal wine. Like
the 11, it'll start its take-off about a year or three from now. It's an
impossible gift at this price so climb aboard and enjoy listening to the engines
warming.
Atzes Corner The Bachelor Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012
$26; 15% alcohol; screw cap; 91+++ points
Named after Bert The Bachelor Kleinig already, and made
by Andrew Kalleske from his mum and dad's block at Koonunga, which used to be
'the Bachelor's', here's a classic punch in the forehead red in the old Ross
Kalleske style. Like Ross would slug you out of pure affection. He whupped me
once with that mighty bowed right in Schluter's Greenock Creek Tavern and it was
like somebody'd sucked my elevator shafts out from the bottom. Collapse without
malice. This is a chocolate and licorice unconciousness with that mysterious
and threatening gunbarrel blue glint of star anise and really ripe juniper
berries. And it's Andrew and John and Barb Kalleske not Ross. Whew. It's a bit
compacted and jackhammered right now, like all the best 2012s, so don't judge
it severely. Drink some now, and start on the rest in a year or two. Like
twelve. If there's any sauce left the morning after that feast outlined above,
wipe it out of the pan with crusty bread and butter; digest it with a backhand
schlück of Bachelor and pretend it's a swoon not an assault. See? I knew you'd
be surprised.
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Coopers' hands at Langmeil coopers' lunch photo by Dragan
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