So it was curiosity which led me to open this part of the trio first, combined with an expectation that it would be the lightest wine of the three.
20 April 2016
CHEEKY RED TRIO FROM SERAFINO
Nebbiolo is named after
the nebbia, the fog and mist of Italy's Piedmont, where this elegant red grape
grows best in the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations.
Some of the top ones are
pale enough to see your fingers through, like the prime Pinot which grows over
the other side of the mountains in Burgundy.
Nebbiolo tannins seem to
float above the rest of the wine's texture like a cloud. Tannin's more
integrally part of the guts of the mightiest Pinots of Burgundy. Sometimes this
tannin thing helps me differentiate between Barolo and Burgundy.
To an extreme, Nebbiolo is
of the opposite of Shiraz, where the tannins are vital to the wine's basement;
its chassis and sump.
McLaren Vale has a
piedmont. It's the foot of the slope of the Willunga escarpment that runs along
the fault from Kangarilla to the Victory Hotel at Sellicks. Other than that,
and maybe the high relative humidy, the region's terroir wouldn't appear to
have much in common with the foothills of the Italian and French Alps.
The Willunga Escarpment, McLaren Vale ... photo©Milton Wordley
So it was curiosity which led me to open this part of the trio first, combined with an expectation that it would be the lightest wine of the three.
Serafino Bellissimo McLaren Vale Nebbiolo 2014 ($20; 13.5%
alcohol; screw cap) is from a vineyard five kays from the coast, near
Aldinga. This is not like Italy's Piedmont. But it highlights the Vales'
tendency to grow reds rich with the cheeky, juicy aromatics of cherries
(maraschino and morello) which are common traits of much fine Italian Nebbiolo,
especially at modest alcohols like this.
The pickling juice of the
morello quite logically opens the flavours, and then there's a rise of acidity
which winemaker Charlie Whish accurately relates to rhubarb. After all that,
yep, the fine tannins do seem rather disconnected.
It all sings closer to
unison with plenty of air. Two hours makes a huge difference. It melds.
While this wine would play
a bright and brash counterpoint to all sorts of pickled charcuterie or
salumaria meats, it'd rock with the black olives in a rich puttanesca.
But it's nothing on what
it'll mellow and settle into with a few years of dungeon. You'll smell
strawberries poaching in Sauternes with about five cloves a serve then.
Have 'em with this wine
and fresh-whipped cream at that point, a light grind of fresh black pepper over
the top.
The Serafino Bellissimo McLaren Vale Tempranillo 2015 ($20; 14.4% alcohol; screw cap) is immediately
a more in-your-face and ready-to-go jobbie. It's bouquet's smoky and gloomy,
like black Iberian ham on the one side, but it's also leaping madly with all
sorts of prune, plum, crème de cassis and currants.
It's made after the joven, or young, style of the ready-to-drink
Spanish Tempranillos. A few kays from this Little Road vineyard, up the slope on
your actual piedmont, Susana Fernadez brought this style to the Vales, and has
for many years made beautiful examples there at Cascabel.
This one's so bright and
salacious and tantalising it seems to rivet my attention to the table. I want
crumbly goat and sheep's cheese, warm kalamata and that black ibérico ham I could smell before I fell
in.
Going back
to Italy, even further up the mountains, we hit Lagrein in Tyrol, in the Alto
Adige.
Keeping
this Serafino Bellissimo McLaren Vale
Lagrein 2014 ($20; 14% alcohol; screw
cap) 'til last makes sense. It's by far the most complex, deeply alluring,
even sultry of the three. It smells of everything the above wines have, times
three, with deep woodfired kitchen stove smells. Pot black and soot; almost
peat. It's fruit is somewhere between a sort of dense traditional Aussie fruit
cake and a racy panforte, with all its musky confectioner's sugar.
By Jove
it's a silky, snaky thing to drink. It's gorgeous. Some of those aromas made me
expect something more cooked and crusty and like olden days but this is a real shiny
damn viper. I can feel its dainty fangs going into my wrist. Its acid is steely
and supple, its tannins like a velvet bandage.
Which is no
guarantee the poison's not already gone right on in. Too late I reckon.
This vivacious
fruit comes from a different vineyard - much further from the Gulf - at McLaren
Flat. I suspect this contributes more to the fact that it's closer to a traditional McLaren Vale soul in
its rich wholesomeness, but the trend stops there.
For a
fourteen per center, this wine's as serpentine as the region gets. It'd be a
stunner to pour at table, in counterpoint to Sabella's Colorino, which is
nearly three times this little price but grows just along the track on the
Flat.
I want
biroldi con crauti: Tyrolean blood sausages with chestnuts and sauerkraut,
lotsa fresh-ground pepper, mustard sauce
and nutmeg over the top.
Crunchy-crust
white bread and lotsa butter.
And do pass
me another asp, would you Tony?
Consultant/writer Sophie Otton with the author and Serafino winemaker Charlie Whish after last year's International Grenache Day Masterclass at Serafino ... photo©Rusty Gallagher
I
congratulate the Serafino crew for getting these adventurous, slurpy wines to
us at $20. Many would have charged much more. And I promise: all three are
better if splooshed through a decanter. Give 'em some air.
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