“Sod the wine, I want to suck on the writing. This man White is an instinctive writer, bloody rare to find one who actually pulls it off, as in still gets a meaning across with concision. Sharp arbitrage of speed and risk, closest thing I can think of to Cicero’s ‘motus continuum animi.’

Probably takes a drink or two to connect like that: he literally paints his senses on the page.”

DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little, Ludmila’s Broken English, Lights Out In Wonderland ... Winner: Booker prize; Whitbread prize; Bollinger Wodehouse Everyman prize; James Joyce Award from the Literary & Historical Society of University College Dublin)





22 April 2013


Australians are drinking cider by the bucket.  Most of this - too much of it - is made from surplus eating apples, like the Golden Delicious (bottom left) and Grannie Smith (bottom right).  These produce run-of-the-mill ciders that are the equivalent, of, say, the industrial quality Murray-Darling Basin Chardonnays of about a decade ago.  Or, perhaps more accurately, the mindless whites made from Sultana before that. So it's exciting to see Warwick Billings, the ex-Somerset man behind the pioneering Adelaide Hills Lobo Cider company, striving to propagate varieties of real cider apples which had almost vanished from Australia. Here are examples of two of his latest plantings.  The tiny ones are Red Streak, although Warwick thinks they may be a very small strain of Brown's Apple, while the top row are the classic Kingston Black.  They're not much good for eating, but they make cider which is far superior. Keep an eye on DRINKSTER for reviews of the ciders Lobo squeezes from these babies.  Maybe it's time the cider manufacturers began listing the varieties they use on their labels, eh? ... photo by Philip White

1 comment:

Adam Easterbrook said...

I believe many ciders are made from imported Chinese apple juice. How delightful. But what's to be expected from apple alcopop?

However, met a guy recently who used to be some sort of wine prof at Adelaide Uni and now lives on KI and is growing a number of traditional UK cider apple varieties. Hope to see those arrive in the market some time soon.