QUIET LUNCH WITH THE CLAPPIS BLOKES

No sorry mate we're shut today for renovations. This is just a work lunch.
by PHILIP WHITE
 

Under cover of renovations Enzo and Andy Clappis gave a lunch for a few senior blokes. Their Our Place is a buzzy tavola di famiglia for lost weekend lunches and special events. It's down The Range from Casa Blanco, across the Willunga Fault atop its escarpment. 

You look out over the Gulf St Vincent from up there with the eagles. 

Father and son served astonishing dishes through a lazy afternoon, including hung pheasants with porcini risotto. Shivers.

A bright young prominently necktagged health inspector from the local council seemed surprised when he strode in to interrupt the Member for Mawson dutifully stirring porcini juice into the big risotto pot. 

The inspector withdrew, suggesting he should return to make an appointment after the renovations - and lunch - were complete. 

Pane di Andy is a tru-blue gastronomic highlight of McLaren Vale life. Andy Clappis by Tony Lewis for Indaily.

When I was green in this game, Greg Trott, explaining his region advised "Young White, there's no competition between McLaren Vale and the Barossa. They're German. We've got the Italians." 

We sure do. This is the menu: 

Pane di Andy and Michael Harbison’s olive oil

Baccala Mantecato alla Venetziana

Pesce in Savor (Coorong mulloway)

Vitello Tonnato (classic Piedmonte dish)

Trippa in Bianco served with freshly grated Padano

Fagiano con Castangne e risotto in bianco con Fagiano e Fungi Porcini

Verdure selvatiche from our paddock (wild broccoli)

Gorgonzola dolce con pere

Joe and his brother John Petrucci were there. Wine people. Growers. Joe brought his confounding Sabella Colorino, which is the syrup of starless nights. This is Joe and his winemaking son Michael. 

photos at top and this one by Philip White

Enzo and Andy are heroes in Adelaide pub history. When they had the Maylands, they were I think the first publicans in Australia to put a posh espresso machine on the front bar. Their food was exemplary. 

Premier Don Dunstan called Enzo "The King of Offal". The last bottle of Penfolds Bin 60A I shared with Max Schubert was in the Maylands. Robbie Robertson brought it. That's what sort of a joint they ran in the face of a towering wave of Colonel Sadness and Hungry Dan's. I have lived a blessed life. 

Thankyou dear Enzo and Andy for adding such rich new layers. And that al dente honeycomb tripe was pretty trippy.

Enzo Clappis by Tony Lewis for Indaily