“Sod the wine, I want to suck on the writing. This man White is an instinctive writer, bloody rare to find one who actually pulls it off, as in still gets a meaning across with concision. Sharp arbitrage of speed and risk, closest thing I can think of to Cicero’s ‘motus continuum animi.’

Probably takes a drink or two to connect like that: he literally paints his senses on the page.”

DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little, Ludmila’s Broken English, Lights Out In Wonderland ... Winner: Booker prize; Whitbread prize; Bollinger Wodehouse Everyman prize; James Joyce Award from the Literary & Historical Society of University College Dublin)





12 August 2017


If I ever get a proper Russian hamburger like this and the vodka stares at me too hard I'll tell it to wait while I first share of bottle of the best Clare Riesling I know, the O'Leary-Walker Drs Cut Polish Hill River 2013, which is still available as a matured release at their Watervale cellars. 


This 'Doctors' vineyard was Grossett's original source of fruit: it made him famous. But in all the years he had sole access to that fruit, I don't think he ever made a wine of this stature. 

Here's the view of the Watervale C├┤tes du blanc from the bold and beautiful O'Leary Walker tasting and sales room. 

The Polish Valley is a few kays over that range. Its ge9logy is generally several hundred million years older.

Here's the last Pole to live there (below): the beautiful man, John Ruciak, who was born in this house and lived there all his life with no plumbing or electricity, but a couple of shipping trunks full of the incredible  copperplate natural history diaries he wrote every day. 

When John was failing thirty years back I suggested having them moved to the Mortlock Library so they'd be safe in archival storage and folks could use them in research, but the locals ferreted them off elsewhere.

You can see those sandstone/schist rocks in John's wall are a helluva lot different to and older than the baby acid rain calcrete the Watervalers pretend is limestone.

I've always believed these much older rocks make the better wine.

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