A mix of wiser winemaking, better, more subtle oak and
cooler vineyard locations has put an end to the rich old butterscotch and
honeyed peach Chardonnays that clumsily launched the variety in Australia. By
Bacchus they were awkward fat bastards. It's amazing that the market put up
with it.
Now we regularly see lovely elegant wines like the annual
Chardonnay release from Oakridge: wines which offer more total pleasure at much
lower alcohol; wines of a higher gastronomic intelligence.
Something about the warmish season leading to the 2015
harvest saw the disparate vineyards of Oakridge produce a range of aromas and
flavours that remind me Cheong Liew's kitchen at Neddy's in the late
'seventies: they're redolent with the aromas of the warm salads he conjured
with white vegetables, green salads, tropical fruits and meat.
Oakridge Over The
Shoulder Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ($23;
13% alcohol; screw cap) is a gentle Chardonnay from vineyards at
Coldstream, Woori Yallock, Gladysdale and Wandin. It reflects its warmish
spring with estery banana, peach and crème caramel bits and pieces; even bean
sprouts slide around in this pan with the flaming crěpes ... hang on - it's
tofu ... a dash of rice wine ... pale soy ... so there you have the food ...
it's really good fresh loveliness with clean white flesh as brisk and innocent
as cucumber or honeydew. Prawns. Sheesh. Call it an Issye Miyake Chardonnay.
Oakridge Lusatia
Park Vineyard Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ($38; 13% alcohol; screw cap) Move up a gear and you get all the
above very lightly fried with straps of pork belly and a squeeze of lemon juice.
It's fruit is a good thick jungle step beyond pineapple: there's some jackfruit
in here with the smell of a grill of coconut meat, starfruit, cashew, bacon fat
and ly-chee ... other smoky hawker whiffs coming off the coals ... you'd think
perhaps all these barbecue and wok insinuations may have come from smoky
barrels, but the wine saw only big, fairly neutral puncheons. The deeper you
delve the more relaxing and mellow the whole deal gets.
Oakridge
Willowlake Vineyard Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015 ($38; 13% alcohol; screw cap) is another step towards a deeper
complexity, which it takes without adding extra flesh or body: instead, we have
a finer, more glowering and surly wine. All the fruit salad and pork fat
notions of the above adventures are here but in a finer, more focused and
finely-honed structure.
And this one has that acrid reek of spent cordite wafting
in the quarry. Edgy and dark. It makes it slightly sinister. It's not so much
the overtly juicy tropicals as drier fruits like the slightly chalky cherimoya
- Annona cherimola -
in the wok with a flash of flaming tequila or bamboo spirit. This wine is more austere, waxy and dry. When
I drink them in this order, and go back to the previous two, the gap widens
between their open fruity flesh and the tighter, more savoury nature of this
Willowlake.
This does have some flesh, of course, with
its fruit. It's avocado. Avo. Olive oil. Lemon juice. Black pepper. Spoon.
Willowlake. Okay. Have toast. Newspaper. Sunday morning. Any left? Have it with
tea-smoked duck at lunch. Hey Cheong, you feel like a duck?
Cheong Liew; paella; Hickinbotham Clarendon vineyard ... photo Milton Wordley
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