Which tickled my curiosity but not as much as the new Filius stage name. It means 'son of' and was a nickname a Latin teacher once applied to me which as a kid I found amusing as my father forbad me from studying Latin on account of him thinking it was a Roman Catholic language. At least I learned one Latin word.
24 March 2016
VASSE FELIX CABS: CATCH THE POSHER ONE
photo©Philip White
Vasse Felix is a great big posh joint in Margaret River,
famous for making Cabernets afforded only by those with the serious affluenza
rife out West back while they were digging her up.
I committed a wine column
crime here last year by choosing to avoid recommending the Vasse Felix hundred
and something Heystesbury model.
Maybe I was too skronky at the time - you get
that - but my bells failed to ding proportionate to the spend and I confess to
submitting to faint guilts about that, which I forgot 'til this more affordable
baby arrived.
"Filius Cabernet Sauvignon is a more approachable
interpretation ... " winemaker Virginia Willcock writes, "but not
without losing the sophistication of good savoury tones to a vibrant fruit line
and solid Cabernet structure with fine tannins leaving your palate dry but full
of perfume."
Which tickled my curiosity but not as much as the new Filius stage name. It means 'son of' and was a nickname a Latin teacher once applied to me which as a kid I found amusing as my father forbad me from studying Latin on account of him thinking it was a Roman Catholic language. At least I learned one Latin word.
Which tickled my curiosity but not as much as the new Filius stage name. It means 'son of' and was a nickname a Latin teacher once applied to me which as a kid I found amusing as my father forbad me from studying Latin on account of him thinking it was a Roman Catholic language. At least I learned one Latin word.
Anyway this Vasse
Felix Filius Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 ($28; 14% alcohol; screw cap) seems dense and moody and deep and
dark and if you suck hard - nose not mouth - you'll find a tickle of stuff like
Bergamot mint and vague violet and meaty blueberry. These pretties get more
cheeky as the wine airs. Sometimes I swear it even breathes a tiny zephyr of
wintergreen.
Then I tip some in there and yes, my miasma does have a
new perfume about it. But between the gulp and the exhalation the wine is quite
solid: more rugby union than league. The tannins are velvety, not lithe. A bit
thick. I'd quite like it with an old fashioned, bitey pepper steak, or the
"twin pepper" hot pot pork you'll find in T-Chow, which has black
pepper and capsicum a-plenty. A stack of big field mushrooms in similar sauces
would do just as well.
I know you can get it for a fair bit less than this in
Hungry Dan's, but even at 30% off I would have preferred it had they shouted it
one extra brand new barrel. Surely the Holmes à Court family, the owners, could
afford a couple more new French oaks for a big blend of $28 a bottle dry red? 87%
old barrels might suit the Rhône varieties, but I prefer just a touch more
sophisticating fresh wood in my Bordeaux types. Carefully chosen barrels can hike the IQ of
Cabernet. Still, that's personal and I know there are many among you who prefer
to drink fruit rather than carpentry.
Then I'll admit that part of this opinion is due to my
expectations of Cabernet sauvignon from Margaret River, which professes to make
the best in Australia. This wine is still more typically Bordeaux-like Cabernet than most of those from
Barossa or McLaren Vale, whatever their price.
Global warming is very quickly narrowing that gap, by the
way. Bordeaux's getting hotter.
As for masculine? Son of? It doesn't remind me of any
blokes I know. I don't follow rugby.
Vasse Felix
Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($45;
14.5% alcohol; screw cap) is more lithe and sinuous from the start, partly
because of its fruit selection, but as much to do, I suspect, with it having a higher
percentage of new and younger used barrels. Its appetising whiffs of bergamot and
wintergreen are also more concentrated and tantalising. It even has some
savory, by which I mean Satureja
hortensis, the savoury herb that reminds me a little of tarragon.
This is obviously a finer breed of Cabernet. It's racier
and more sinewy in a delightful light-footed way. It prickles and tickles the
nose and sets those salivaries dribbling well before you drink any. Swallow
some, and you simply want more. This drink makes me thirsty more than hungry.
And having slurped quite a lot of in a very low-mannered
way, I can happily say this one really does give my exhalation some delightful
perfume. Its tannins are less droll, less thick and stodgy, its lovely
appetising acid on better, brighter display.
This agile wine - can we still use that word with
impunity? - makes me think of paddock chook stewed with tarragon or savory and
lemon and served with silver beet almost caramelised in the pan with pine nuts
and fetta. Which makes me realise the reason I wanted steak and pepper with the
Filius was to stomp on it. This lovely thing needs to be danced with.
Tango.
In fact, it makes me need to dance more urgently than
last year's offering of Heytesbury did.
Maybe as the wild West decays the residuals believe $28
is cheap while a Heystesbury on the table makes it look like you can still afford
tyres for the big Merc.
I'll look for the $45 drinkers. They probably can't
afford a car, but they'll be the gourmands.
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