“Sod the wine, I want to suck on the writing. This man White is an instinctive writer, bloody rare to find one who actually pulls it off, as in still gets a meaning across with concision. Sharp arbitrage of speed and risk, closest thing I can think of to Cicero’s ‘motus continuum animi.’

Probably takes a drink or two to connect like that: he literally paints his senses on the page.”

DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little, Ludmila’s Broken English, Lights Out In Wonderland ... Winner: Booker prize; Whitbread prize; Bollinger Wodehouse Everyman prize; James Joyce Award from the Literary & Historical Society of University College Dublin)





14 January 2016


In spite of the wet 2011 year being very very tricky, Paracombe Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2011 ($23; 14.8% alcohol; screw cap) is typical of the gentle, dead-reliable reds released year-in-year out by the Drogemuller family in their beautiful vineyard and winery complex above the Torrens Gorge at Paracombe. 

This is exquisite Shiraz, warm and polished to a silky sheen. As usual with this brand, the wine doesn't seem quite as strong as that alcohol number infers: its acidity and splinter of spicy French oak balance its plummy opulence nicely. 

To get premium high country fruit like this on the market at $23 is remarkably generous: across the river at Balhanna Shaw & Smith are selling their 2013 Shiraz at $44. Some would argue that that extra $21 is justified in that S&S won the best wine of the show in the Adelaide Hills wine races late last year. But. But. But. I think the Paracombe wine has better form and balance.

That's always been the Droggie manner: look after your customers.

There's another Paracombe Shiraz - same vintage; same alcohol; same price - with a free sploosh of Viognier which seems to have brought the tannins into a more crisp focus. Rather than adding ripe apricot jam to what is usually quite ripe jammy Shiraz in most Australian makers' attempts, Paracombe has got it right: this is what Viognier should be used for. If picked fresh enough, it has quite bright phenolic tannins which will work the Shiraz phenolics over beautifully. If anything, this clever blend could use another year two of cellar to be drunk at its optimum. 

Paracombe Adelaide Hills Somerville Shiraz 2010 ($69; 16% alcohol; cork) comes from the 1903 vineyard of Jas Somerville, the first bloke to plant vines on the Paracombe plateau. 

Seventy years back when John Davouren was perfecting his St Henri Claret recipe opposite Penfolds Grange at Auldana, he loved using the gentle, rich fruit of these vines. Fifty years later, when Paul Drogemuller attempted to buy the last (barely) surviving patch of the vineyard the owner refused to part with the ground, so Paul purchased the 500 vines as individual plants, took them back to his vineyard up the hill, and replanted them around his house in 1997. 

While Paul and son Ben let this fruit fully ripen to alcohols higher than many nowadays prefer,or more likely admit to, it's easy to see how such gentle flavour went so well in the blend of Davouren's St Henri - it would have provided what Max Schubert purringly called called 'a mother wine.' 

Here you can purr over the mother wine, unblended. While 16 is a fair few alcohols, this vintage in particular seems so silky and luxuriously balanced you'd never know. Yum. Steak please.

photos Philip White

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