Spinout by Philip White
Last message from the depot:
a year not had very well by the not very well but killed by others
by PHILIP WHITE
Now that was a year. My
hermit life became very challenging after braining myself on a low veranda
whilst moving house last Christmas; an injury which rekindled the damage of
many other head wounds from my reckless past.
So my written output has
been a tad erratic. At times it's been tricky to perform and now I look back on
the twelvemonth through the blurred and bent eye of a bloke living in fear of
becoming a very shitty old prick.
Apart from the odd notable
outing, retweeting other people's bad news seemed about as good as I could do
most of the days I could crawl out of bed.
There were too many
funerals. One miserable morning I removed thirteen names and numbers from my
phone. That was enough; I drew the line at that. There are more dead ones in
there. Drinking the wines of the dead is little delight when their departure is
still raw. The cheapest comfort comes from imagining how much worse it must be
in Syria, and the Yemen - you know the long terrible list of hell holes - and that's no comfort at all. The world is in ruin; our politicians'
treachery easily oozes through their silly thin shine.
There was no writing for
pleasure this year. For the first time in my life poetry seemed impossible.
I tell you this in
warning: my recollections of what is normally pleasurable are jaundiced.
Nothing much changed in the
big volume end of the wine industry. The Aussie dollar fell, making export easier,
but if the likes of Kingston Estate boss Bill Moularadelis are any guide,
electricity price hikes he blames on solar and wind power would appear to have
cancelled that relief. His Riverland refinery processes five per cent of
Australia's wine. He exports it in bulk, obviously at the thinnest margin.
Maybe he wants a nuclear reactor across the river, like they have in Bordeaux.
It doesn't take too many
outbursts like Moularadelis's effort in TheFinancial Review last week to show this belatedly greening world how lost
many big Oz wineries are beginning to look.
As this El NiƱio
progresses, and the drought of five and six years ago repeats, perhaps even
more viciously, the irrigated wine business of the Murray Darling is sure to face
horrid prospects indeed.
As I reported here in September, when Winemakers Federation of Australia Chief Executive Paul Evans reported a 5%
increase in grape prices, he added "This is an industry average and many
producers in the warm inland regions in particular continue to experience
enormous challenges. Our analysis shows that 92% of production in warm inland
areas is unprofitable."
That came as no surprise
to those few of us who keep our noses to the winestone. What did surprise and
reassure was the number that then emerged from the top end of the market.
Wine Australia's Export Report September 2015 outlined the
strongest rate of growth since the peak of October 2007. That was the last time
the Aussie dollar was worth zilch.
In the 12 months to September 30 this year, the value of exports rose 8
per cent to A$1.96
billion. This wasn't the work of the giant bladder pack business. Uh-huh. A lot
of that export bulk came from wine grown at a loss by those Murray Valley
irrigating families who've not made a cent for years. But wine above A$50/litre
rose 54 per cent to a record A$133 million. This is only 0.2 per cent of total
exports by volume, but the report shows it's worth 7 per cent of total value.
In October, Wine Australia Chief Executive Officer Andreas Clark
said "We’re seeing the strongest rates of growth in our premium price
segments. Wines above A$10 per litre grew in value 28 per cent to A$426
million, a record for this segment. Wines in the A$20-$50 segment increased 13
per cent to A$88 million."
Enough said
about that. The industrial revolution in much Australian wine seems to have
failed.
While it did
that, a predictable counter-revolution pre-occupied me for a brief moment. This
was the advent of brown and orange hippy wines that called themselves natural. It
was a tiny volume which gained a totally disproportionate degree of attention
from the hipster sommeliers and those
writers who aim at that millenial audience. The fad of such wines, those
with a shelf life briefer than unpasteurised milk, is mercifully waning.
Smarter
premium grower/producers, however, are certainly learning to make much better,
cleaner, more environmentally sound wines in larger volumes, which last as well
as the most preservative-soused premiums of yore. That's very cool.
While I quote
those reports of the country's two biggest wine industry representative and
administrative councils, I should also report that their continuing failure to
grasp the realities of the gap between the premium, profitable end of the
business and the vast volume-pumping, loss-making, environmentally-destructive
bottom end has never looked so indictable.
While these
two, and other bodies, are currently attempting to merge into one supergroup,
they continue to miss the point: there are two wine industries in Australia.
One is premium and profitable, the other is bulk and simply not. While the
biggest investment is in the latter bit, those practitioners need more and more
to depend on the pointier, sharper, more respected and profitable end to give
them camouflage in the export markets and to a lesser extent, within Australia.
While these
two ends of the business masquerade as one, their propaganda and lobbying
efforts are far too easily ignored by significant politicians. I know various
key pollies of both sides of the houses at both state and federal levels who
quietly say they can't afford to take too much notice of wine industry councils.
Which leads
me to those who write about wine and its manufacturers. In the major
newspapers, the most reliable industry commentaries appear in the better business
pages, even when written by folks who are not wine industry specialists.
As their
space continues to diminish, the wine recommenders in the food and wine pages
become more and more slavish to the wine producers, and less likely to ever
publish anything that gets close to honest criticism.
Like the
stuttering repetition of the out-of-date wine show system, their relevance
seems to fade as surely as the wine industry councils they consistently fail to
analyse and report.
The fractal
chaos of the blogosphere is not much better. Waves of would-be could-bees
quickly subside into forgotten coulda-beens as they realise there's no money in
it unless they get into financial bed with those they hope will keep them
supplied with free booze forever.
So there. A
jaundiced view from a jaundiced hack. There's no pleasure in writing this.
But I
happily stand by the reviews of the many delicious tinctures I have recommended
here throughout the year. Many of them retail for not much more than the cost
of three or four pints of beer.
I look
forward to having a couple of weeks away from the keyboard while I replace the
tasting bench with the accubation table, and continue to get my ratty brain
back into line.
Be very
careful in the heat and the celebrations. Never drive if you drink. Don't
forget the water. Don't waste money on presents nobody wants - send the money
to the poor bloody refugees that somehow manage to stay afloat as they flee Armageddon.
I'll leave
you with a better summary than I've managed here. It's musical and poetic and
perfect and it fits my attitude to all the above and reflects my respect of
you, dear reader: it's Guy Clarke and Karen Matheson singing Guy's Dublin Blues. Pour yourself a big one, roll up a racehorse special
and find it here on Youtube.
In the meantime, have a
very merry thing. See you on the other side.
Ka-chink!
3 comments:
Stunningly good stuff once again Philip I have enjoyed every piece this past year as in every other year I have known you. Take it steady and enjoy the break and hopefully see you soon into '16
Cheers m'dears
Pedro
Well, I've been drinking your 2015 notes since I got back. Love the Jericho whites. 2015 was my shittiest year so far but the even numbers are usually better. Thanks for all the writing and hope to give you my subscription whisky sometime soon.
Cheers
Jesse
Agree with all except the bit about unpasteurized milk. Lasts longer in & out of the fridge & can still be drank when it does sour.
Rohan
UK
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