Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling 2015
$25; 12% alcohol; screw cap; 85 points
To this observer, Pewsey Vale vineyard Riesling has been distinguished over many years by vegetal, almost grassy aromas and flavours that remind me of autumnal vine leaves, or at least their stalks, or petiols. Marsanne often shows this, and Semillon too will show it. It's not like the primary lawn clipping grassiness of, say, Kiwi Savvy-B, but a more complex, partly-stewed sort of an affair. Sometimes a product of location as much as variety, a version of it is easily achieved anywhere with any variety if harvesting machines just happen to pick too many leaves as they rattle the grapes off. Vintage pressure, see?
Given the stature and total volume of this wine and its domination of shelves and lists, it's obvious many people enjoy this distinction, but this new vintage allures me because that character is greatly diminished. Instead we have the insinuations of fresh lemon and lime and maybe lemon verbena.
The wine's not as bony, stony and austere as many of the smaller vineyard Riesings from the old rocks of the Barossa Range and Eden Valley, and it's not as intensely limy as many of the the Clare versions. This makes it a lot more approachable and open-hearted. I suspect folks who find those rather challenging, adults-only specialties a one or two glass affair will find it much easier to tackle a whole bottle of this year's Pewsey Vale.
Heggies Eden Valley Riesling 2015