Pizzini King Valley Rosetta 2014
$19; 12% alcohol; screw cap; 92+ points
They don't tell us what's in this, but it smells like wet potter's clay, raspberries and cranberries. And there's a green bit with a thin dark edge, a little like baby basil leaves, but with a sinister glint of that watercress pepper you get in real old basil plants. And it's creamy, without being dairy-dominant. Like vegetable glycerine. The palate is a dainty thing that looks like it's gonna skip clear away off your palate as quick as look at you but instead it kinda snuggles in with a book and stays just long enough to make you feel like a very lucky person to have such a polite, delicate and unintrusive guest. But when I served it with my panzanella made with real light oil and the best white wine vinegar with a shot of manzanilla and shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano, the two of them just ran off together, giggling across the meadow, leaving me all a-flutter. So what did the cuckold do tonight? Made another panzanella; poured another glass. The thrill's bigger second time.