“Sod the wine, I want to suck on the writing. This man White is an instinctive writer, bloody rare to find one who actually pulls it off, as in still gets a meaning across with concision. Sharp arbitrage of speed and risk, closest thing I can think of to Cicero’s ‘motus continuum animi.’

Probably takes a drink or two to connect like that: he literally paints his senses on the page.”


DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little, Ludmila’s Broken English, Lights Out In Wonderland ... Winner: Booker prize; Whitbread prize; Bollinger Wodehouse Everyman prize; James Joyce Award from the Literary & Historical Society of University College Dublin)


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09 September 2011

BILSON KNOCKS INTO THREE COCKED HATS

TETSUYA WAKUDA, TONY BILSON AND NEIL PERRY ... THE AUTHOR FIRST MET THE NOW GREAT TETS WHEN HE WAS MAKING SUSHI AND COOKING BURGHERS IN BILSON'S LEGENDARY KINSELAS, A THREE-STOREY EMPORIUM FOR HUNGER, THIRST AND THEATRE IN TAYLOR SQUARE, SYDNEY, AROUND 1985 ... PERRY HAS NEVER BEEN ON THE BILSON TEAM, BUT MAKES A FAIR GO OF IT WITH HIS FISH

FROM the blackest extremes of his dark moody gizzards, the DRINKSTER congratulates a beloved lifelong friend and colleague, Tony Bilson, for this week regaining his Three Hats in the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide awards, and a fortnight back winning the 2011 National Award for Best Restaurant from the Australian Hotels Association, the hotel industry’s highest award for culinary perfection.

This follows his triumphant Penfolds dinner at the Australian embassy in Paris, with incredible
Penfolds classics selected by co-host and sponsor, Penfolds chief winemaker, Peter Gago. The dish below is Nick Haselgrove's phone deleriousness of Bilson's Manjimup Truffles, Foie Gras, Fig and Brioche. Western Australian truffles!

Click on the image to see the entire menu and wine list.

Bilson’s restaurant history is a formidable and persistent skyrocket, at the head of Australian cuisine for over forty years. A tad spitty, maybe, when all the money in the world suddenly vanishes, and customers withdraw their tease. But Bilson was never a gastronomic fizzer, and he never goes away. From cooking chops in a pub in South Melbourne, through Johnny Walker’s steakhouse in the Sydney CBD, to, in some sort of order, Tony’s Bon Gout, Berowra Waters Inn, Kinselas, Bilson’s on Circular Quay, Tony’s Fine Bouche, The Treasury, Ampersand, Tony Bilson’s Canard, Bilson’s at the Radisson Blu, Number One Wine Bar and The Royal Exchange (the latter three which he runs simultæneously, now), this amazing man, and his family, has never ever given up, through economic slump and boom, and the odd personal health and wealth pisser that would erase lesser mortals.

From Bon Gout on, I recall great meals in each of those restaurants: dining with Bocuse in that astounding Bilson's in the International Passenger Terminal on Circular Quay; with Richard Olney at The Treasury; with Stephen Hickinbotham and David Hohnen at Berowra; with Gretel and Steggers at Kinselas; don't get me started.

AMANDA BILSON, PAUL HAMLIN BOOK EDITOR, WIFE OF TONY, AND MOTHER OF LILY AND EDWARD, THEIR RESPECTFUL BOHAUTE RESTAURANT INSURRECTIONIST OFFSPRING ... RED BERRIES IN KIRSCH AND THE AUTHOR, IN TONY'S FINE BOUCHE, CA 1990 ... THE WALLS WERE HUNG WITH PERFECTLY SENSUAL CARDBOARD COLLAGES BY PETER POWDITCH




To see the current wine list at Bilson’s at the Radisson Blu, click here. To perve on the funky bohaute cuisine of Number One, click here. To join the fustier clubland of The Royal Exchange, click here.

For a recent profile, click here, understanding the journalist’s regular mistake - there was no divorce of Gay and Tony – they never married: she changed her name by deed poll from Cheeseman to Bilson, which was easier when they had their children, Morgan and Sido.

Gleefully married to Amanda for 24 years, grrr, of recent years Bilson's been working hard with the people in the Bawaka homelands, East Arnhem Land, trustfully swapping seeps of knowledge. They're thinking of a modern industrial kitchen to swap and merge their stuff. You watch the graduates of this school!

Bilson has also been busy in Bangla Desh, building essential cultural connections through the friendship of cuisine.

In the Winegrowers' Diary introduction written by the great Walter James for David Wynn in 1970, there lies a very frank paragraph:

"In some fields of productive endeavour, of course, you cannot achieve much without substantial means; it is only a little sad that so many men of ability as they reach for success and meet it are beguiled into allowing the means to submerge the aim and in the end are content to do, adequately enough, no more than a hundred others around them are doing equally well. Their obituaries describe these people as successful businessmen and they pass promptly into oblivion."

This did not apply to David Wynn, and will never apply to the fearless Bilson.

BILSON: EASTER BREAKFAST AT WHITEY'S, BAROSSA RANGES, ABOUT 1989

For Jancis Robinson's review of the Paris dinner, click here.

ZAR BROOKS CLEARS WIRRA CELLAR 1992 (?)


CYCLONE CLAYTON PLAYS WIRRA WIRRA, MIDNIGHT, 1992(?) photo ZAR BROOKS(?)

WHEN Greg Trott bravely employed Zar Brooks as his Wirra Wirra sales and marketing punk in the early ’nineties, the ravenous Brook decided it was time to clear the winery of enormous amounts of bottled wine that Trott had ferreted away and forgotten. They put it all in bins in the cellar hall, just like Woollies or Coles, got licensed for a 24 hour wine sale, advertised minimally, got the grapevine hummin’, and hired Cyclone Clayton, the cyclone you had when you weren’t having a cyclone, to get the buyers buzzin’ at the half way mark. We started about midnight and played for a couple of hours. There were a lot of people, given the time of day in that neck of the woods. Very thirsty people. Lotsa dancing. All the fires blazin’. It was very snug in there on that cold night. We played blues and some Duke. We were Vello Nou, keyboards; Russell Toolin, bass and vocals; Craig “Crabs” Tidswell, sax and vocals; Duncan Archibald, drums; Jimmy Barker, lead guitar, and the author, guitar and vocals. If you have any refining memories of this hazy blur, use the comments box below, or send them to DRINKSTER at whiteswine@hotmail.com ... discretion almost guaranteed. As I write this, Zar and Elena are heading to Spain for vintage: Elena's Spanish wines ROCK. Check out their Australian wines at Dandelion Vineyards , and the Spanish injection at Cien y Pico. To see a Youtube review of their Dandelion Shiraz Riesling, click here. Rock'n'roll!

OUR STRANGE BEHINDS: NOT MARTI SHAW!

FROM THE ARCHIVE: THE AUTHOR, CENTRE, JUDGING A McLAREN VALE COCKTAIL COMPETITION, ABOUT 1981. HELP REMIND DRINKSTER OF THE IDENTITY OF THE TWO GENTLEMEN ON THE LEFT ... THE THREE ON THE RIGHT ARE MARTINA SHAW, OF SHAW & SMITH; PAUL BUTTERY, OF GEMTREE AND THE TERRACES, AND MARK MAXWELL, OF MAXWELL WINES

CULLEN REDS: AUSTRALIA'S HOLY TRINITY

THE CULLEN FAMILY, MARGARET RIVER WINEMAKING PIONEERS, IN 1978 ... CURRENT WINEMAKER, VANYA, IS ON THE LEFT, CENTRE ARE THE PARENTS, WINEMAKER DIANA MADELINE CULLEN AND Dr. KEVIN JOHN CULLEN, BOTH DECEASED ... CLICK IMAGE TO WATCH VID OF THE DRINKSTER REVIEWING THE BREATHTAKING TRIO OF NEW CULLEN REDS.

08 September 2011

WINE EQUALISATION TAX: UNEQUALLY WET

WET Adds To Aussie Wine Glut
Wrecks Murray-Darling & Todd
Many Good Folks Need Big Help



Philip White's delivery at the launch of the report Alcohol Taxation Reform - Starting With The Wine Equalisation Tax, held Tuesday in Parliament House, Canberra. Click here to download the Allen Consulting Group's Report to The Alcohol Education & Rehabilitation Foundation


At school, they never teach us what Australia means.

The word, austral, is a vital clue to the nature of this country. It comes from the Greek αυδτηος, which means severe, and gradually morphed to mean harsh, bitter, astringent, without luxury.

And yet we blithely live as if this ancient worn-out desert was a lush tropical garden.

It’s like the larrikin Aussie calling redheads “Blue” - the opposite of the reality.

The Wine Equalisation Tax, the WET is the same.

While it is a pertinent acronym in the moist sense, ensuring Australians have access to wine so cheap it’s sometimes around 25 cents a standard drink, and depends upon an endless supply of impossibly cheap water in the Murray-Darling, there’s nothing equal about this tax.

While it was set up as a rebate to assist the small specialist wineries during the rewrite of the tax laws at the beginning of the GST, it is now quite clearly doing the opposite.

The WET scheme is completely, unequivocally biased in favour of the cheapest, most destructive plonk. The more effort you put into growing and making a really good clean wine, the more the government will tax you. Build a refinery, and use ridiculous amounts of irrigation water to make desert goon-bag quality, three times the strength of average beer and often full of sugar … and the government expects so little tax that you can sell this for less than the price of bottled water.

It’s important to realize that even something as simple, on the face of it, as Wine Australia, the taxpayer-subsidised governing body of the wine industry, and the industry-funded Winemakers Federation Australia, are actually mechanisms which makes it look like the wine industry is indeed one industry.

It’s not. It’s really several quite distinctive and separate industries which are often in direct competition with each other.

There are big industry councils, of course, like Wine Australia and Winemakers Federation, but these invariably act in support of the status quo with their favour protecting the biggest companies. Even the Winemakers Federation was hi-jacked – it started in the 80s as the Small Winemakers’ Association to counterbalance the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation’s total manipulation by the biggest producers.

But soon the Small Winemakers was everybody’s Winemakers Federation of Australia, a virtual lobbying duplicate of the Australian Wine and Brandy, which is now Wine Australia. It was Brian Croser and Ian Sutton of the WFA who “negotiated” the WET to appease the biggest refineries, throw the littlies a bone, and keep the whole thing looking like it was one united industry.

There are about 2500 wine producers. Three quarters of them crush less than 100 tonnes per year. While there are too many of them … doctors and lawyers with a vanity brand, planted with the wrong grapes in the wrong places for all the wrong reasons … scattered amongst these 1800 wineries are the nuts-and-berries wineries with ivy, a fireplace and a famous dog

… and really good wine …

They provide the enormous refineries with good cover; some heart and soul and wholesomeness.

They lend the Australian wine business its legitimacy. They provide its gastronomic interest. They keep many thousands of restaurants in profit.

Government Tourism Commissions seem to think these tiny wineries exist purely to shout free drinks for tourists. These aren’t free, of course – having paid to grow and make the wine, the winemaker must pay tax on every bottle poured for tasting.

But once you get past these conveniently alluring littlies, you hit those ethanol refineries very abruptly.

About 42 per cent of the wine consumed in Australia is in bladder packs. These figures are from the 2011 Australian and New Zealand Wine Industry Directory.

The two biggest companies, Accolade and Treasury, make about 42% of Australia’s total wine, and account for about 45% of all sales.

The top twenty producers account for about 90% of total sales.

That leaves 2457 producers competing for 10% of total sales.

For many of these, the WET rebate is the only profit they make – they are very vulnerable, and we shall see many go to the wall after the disastrous vintage of 2011 – the second wettest since the wine industry began.

It also saw some perverse rorting of the WET.

The biggest companies have always preferred an oversupply of grapes. They are expert at ensuring this occurs.

A great example was the Strategy 2025 devised by the big stakeholders in 1995. That was a thirty-year strategic plan: a template for the managed growth of the entire Australian wine industry over three decades.

They preached that gospel so loudly to politicians, regional councils and speculators that within four years Australia had completed the entire thirty year program of vineyard expansion.

Plantings have continued apace since then, and now we have an enormous glut of unsold wine, and once the river goes back to normal, a scary shortage of water.

I live in McLaren Vale, where profits are higher than most other regions, and yet some of the growers of the poorer quality fruit have not picked a crop for two years.

The problem is much worse in many other regions, like the irrigated inland.

This year, more than any other, saw the rise of the Virtual Winemakers – people becoming so-called “wine producers”. They’d rock up at the gate of the struggling grower, who had no buyer and couldn’t afford to pick, offer to take the crop, basically borrow it for a while, while they’d send it to a contract winery and have it vinified.

The deal is that they eventually pay the growers for the fruit when the bulk wine is sold, less the cost of manufacture and handling.

So you have an increase of Dodgy Brothers who have no winemaking expertise, no real investment in the business, no winery plant, no oak and no vineyards, pocketing the WET rebate while they flood the market with even more, lower-priced poor quality bulk plonk.

There is now pressure on larger wineries to split up into smaller companies in order to pocket the WET. Business models are in circulation based on this easy windfall. The huge retailers of bulk cleanskin plonk love it!

This is disastrous for the nuts-and-berries wineries who have developed vineyards for generations, and have gradually invested enough money to have built efficient little wineries and send an offspring or two to study winemaking and viticulture.

These strugglers, the makers of the best and most distinctive wines, have constantly worked their vineyards to keep up with changing tastes and fashions, and develop new wine styles that the refineries will soon be copying and devaluing. The little guys take the risk, and must make a reasonable dollar, or they’ll die.

There is no other industry quite like this small end of the wine business.

First you are a primary producer, a plant physiologist, farmer, soil expert and environmental scientist. Then you become a secondary producer, a winemaker, a biochemist with a nose for the odd good forest of oak in France or Romania or somewhere.

After your industrialist phase you must become a marketing and public relations expert, a packaging expert, a transport aficionado, and you learn about licensing and export law and international sales. You must be fluent in haute cuisine and the restaurant world.

Of course most are not very good at all of these skills, and amongst these you’ll find those who couldn’t exist without a rebate.

But if they are to be protected, they should first be protected from rivals with none of these investments, skill, or long-term planning.

And they shouldn’t have to hope for protection from an unfair tax which clearly discriminates against them whilst masquerading as a support.

Neither should they be forced to compete with ethanol refiners – barely taxed at all - who use enormous amounts of water mining the Mallee for sugar, and wreak environmental, social and economic destruction at both manufacture and consumption ends of this nasty, depressing chain.

Ignoring the shameful health costs the big ethanol industry wreaks, there is no doubt that the WET rebate perpetuates the delusion of a sustainable bladder-pack industry which depends upon ongoing supplies of cheap water which we simply do not have.

Alcohol tax should indeed be equalized, and there’s one very obvious way of doing that.

We need to devise a carefully planned, staged move from the ridiculous and illogical WET to an across-the-board excise on ethanol.

My colleagues, and this report, have, and will, continue to address the damage wrought at the receiving end of all this stupidity.

I trust I have begun to address the damage the WET causes to communities at the supply end. Entire townships that rely completely on this flaky business will need lots of help. Many communities in the irrigated inland will need counselling, rebuilding, cash and perhaps even relocating.

In finishing, I’d like to quote a friend who grows grapes and makes wine in his little Inkwell vineyard, Dudley Brown, a former chair of the McLaren Vale Grape Wine And Tourism Association.

“While the wine industry isn’t solely to blame for this [health mess], it insists on maintaining its tax-advantaged status as Australia’s low cost provider of ethanol. On the other hand, it asserts that wine is a hedonic product – that we buy and drink wine because we enjoy its flavor and alcoholic properties and that overwhelmingly, we do so responsibly. Fair enough. My confusion is this: if wine tastes better and is taxed the same as other forms of ethanol, why is the wine industry worried about competition?”

So it’s time we had a big rethink about what Australia means, what it is. We need a little less delusive wet and lot more dry austerity – and fairness – in the way we tax ethanol.
Link
FURTHERMORE:

http://www.abc.net.au/worldtoday/content/2011/s3310869.htm

http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/breaking-news/research-says-tax-makes-wine-glut-worse/story-e6frf7jx-1226130734621

http://www.smh.com.au/national/wine-tax-reform-plan-to-hit-purse-but-help-the-body-20110905-1ju9z.html


http://www.canberratimes.com.au/news/national/national/general/tax-changes-urged-to-stop-cheap-alcohol/2282074.aspx


http://au.news.yahoo.com/thewest/a/-/newshome/10193276/wine-plan-may-double-cask-price/

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Link

07 September 2011

WET: DUDLEY BROWN CLEARS THE WATER

DUDLEY BROWN AT WORK AT INKWELL WINES ... CLICK IMAGE TO SEE A VIDEO OF HIS PRESENTATION AT TedX DUBBO

Wine Water Tax And Politics
Dudley Brown At TedX Dubbo
Pity He Didn't Mention Religion


Below is the full text of the former Chairman of the McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association's speech at the recent TedX Dubbo conference

My name is Dudley Brown. I am a wine grape grower and winemaker in McLaren Vale, South Australia. Please ignore the accent, its Australian. I’m just a bit confused. In fact, I’m a lot confused. That is how I ended up speaking at Tedx. They actually invited me to share my confusion with you.

Before I became a farmer, I was in recruiting for start-ups in California. As my business education was in wealth creation and not wealth redistribution, I was poorly prepared to understand the politics of agriculture in Australia.

I moved to Australia in 2003 not long after I realized that my three biggest expenses in California were my mortgage, property taxes and wine. The idea was to raise my kids in a beautiful place and eliminate my biggest expenses by buying a vineyard and drinking my own wine. What could go wrong?

I considered three wine regions in California and five in Australia. I hired a viticultural expert and researched grape and wine quality, soils, climate and water before choosing McLaren Vale above all others.

My plan was to eke out a living selling grapes and building a very small high-end wine brand to support my family.

After arriving, I worked as a laborer in my vineyard for three years improving so-so vines into some of Australia’s best using principles we now call sustainable farming.

In 2005, the risk of water shortages resulting from the drought made me realize that I could be driven out of business and lose my life savings. Mains water then cost about $900 per megalitre. It’s now approaching $2500 per ML – high enough to have put me out of business.

The good news was that I had an alternative – a privately owned reclaimed water system was nearby. The bad news was that it would cost $100,000 just to connect to it.

Reclaimed irrigation water has two advantages for the world:

1) It decreases demand for drinking water

2) It reduces the amount of pollution that flows into the ocean.

I helped start a plan with other small farmers to ask our governments to match investments made by us to substitute our irrigation source. Our approach was market based – the government’s investment would be about the market price for permanent river water rights at the time. The pollution we prevented was a bonus.

We pitched state and federal politicians on the idea but our plan became a “policy issue” to be studied by the bureaucracy. In short, it went nowhere.

In the lead up to the 2007 election, Anthony Albanese’s advisor called me out of the blue one day to ask for a meeting with Anthony the next day. After the announcement that Labor supported our plan, a political bidding war broke out that resulted in $4 million in funding from the state and federal governments for our plan. That was when I learned something big.

Big idea #1 – Politics matter more than policies. Policies don’t change until politicians need to win an election.

Four years on, we have permanently substituted around 500 million litres of drinking water – enough for 2000 households - per year and we are only halfway done.

This little project initiated my un-holy descent into the politics of agriculture in Australia.

Hopefully, you’ll understand why I was slow to catch on to my Big Idea #2. It may come as a serious shock to some of you too.

Big Idea #2: Wine is not Food.

Australia does not need more wine. It does need more food.

These two Big Ideas inform my view of three policy areas that impact the wine and grape industry – water, tax and land use.

My confusion is local in nature but has national importance. As Tip O’Neill famously said, “All politics are local.”

The wine grape industry is in long-term oversupply. Approximately 1/3 of the wine grapes grown in Australia are not required by wineries for wine. Because most grapes are substitutable for grapes from other regions, the effect of this is to drive down grape prices in all regions.

As a guy with pretty strong free market beliefs, I know that low prices drive out inefficient and unprofitable producers. But confusingly, in Australian, they don’t. Why?

In discussing this problem with those in government, their stock response is: “we’re not in the business of picking winners.” This led me to big idea # 3:

Big Idea #3:

Government policies pick winners - whether they do something new or not and whether they mean to or not.

Current taxation of wine in Australia is done on the basis of the value of the wine, not on the amount of ethanol it contains.

The rest of the ethanol industry – beer, spirits, etc - is taxed on the amount of ethanol it contains. The effect of the current tax policy is to make low priced wine – particularly cask wine - the cheapest way to get drunk in Australia.

Ethanol is a dangerous and addictive. Those with the least money and biggest thirst for ethanol logically buy cask wine. Despite their logic, these folks need help, not cheap booze.

The outcome of current policy can be most visibly seen scattered across the outback in the form of empty casks, ruined lives and decimated communities – particularly Aboriginal ones. However, the costs are spread across the entire population in the form of healthcare costs, broken families, crime, drunk driving deaths and homelessness to the tune of many billions per year.

While the wine industry isn’t solely to blame for this, it insists on maintaining its tax-advantaged status as Australia’s low cost provider of ethanol. On the other hand, it asserts that wine is a hedonic product – that we buy and drink wine because we enjoy its flavor and alcoholic properties and that overwhelmingly, we do so responsibly. Fair enough. My confusion is this: if wine tastes better and is taxed the same as other forms of ethanol, why is the wine industry worried about competition?

The second aspect of the current tax is the 31% WET rebate. The intent of this policy is to refund taxes paid by small wine producers – who generally produce higher priced wines – to compensate them for the high expense of the value based rate of tax they pay. Yea, I know – it’s confusing!

As growers have found winery buyers of grapes vanishing, they are increasingly lending their grapes to middlemen who offer the grower the proceeds from making their grapes into bulk wine a few months later less the cost of production. What could go wrong?

But, crucially, the middleman then pockets the 31% WET rebate on the sale price. This money is earned with almost no capital invested and no risk while the people who have invested their lives in their vineyard just get even lower prices the next year because the wine glut grows.

The net of this is that the taxpayer is funding middlemen who have no capital at risk and grape growers with unviable businesses to make our very worst grapes into wine to be sold around the world with “Made in Australia” stamped on every bottle for as little as 50 cents per litre. Which winner has the government picked? Do they even know?

In the 2011 vintage, it is believed that about 900,000 tonnes of wine-worthy (this means disease free) grapes were harvestable for table wine this year. Despite this, Australia processed over 1.6 million tonnes of grapes. This means that as much as 45 million cases of truly awful wine was made and added to the oversupply.

The only “demand” for bad fruit in 2011 was from rent seeking middlemen who made common cause with desperate farmers to take taxpayers’ money legally. Unintended consequences are called unintended for a reason. They’re unintended! Is this outcome what taxpayers’ want?

In the grape growing industry today, inland regions use seven to ten times more irrigation water to grow one dollars worth of grapes than coastal regions like the Barossa or McLaren Vale. If you factor in reclaimed water usage, inland regions today use up to 25 times the amount of drinking water to grow one dollar’s worth of grapes as in McLaren Vale.

Twenty years ago, McLaren Vale produced similar yields of grapes with similar amounts of irrigation to many inland regions today. But, we realized we were destroying our aquifer in the process. To protect our long-term sustainability, we limited water extraction in the nation’s first managed basin. The effects were:

1) Prices for McLaren Vale grapes rose as quality rose

2) Growers suddenly owned water rights worth $15,000 per megalitre instead of nothing

3) Our aquifer is re-charging, even in drought years

4) Water restrictions wrecked our lower value almond growing industry

This step change in water management led me to:

Big Idea #4:


Regulatory changes can be a good thing as long as they are applied broadly and equally.

The saying on the River Murray is “if you’re downstream, you are dirty with everyone upstream.”

To understand inland water usage, up to 1000 litres of river water are required to produce one litre of wine that sells for less money than one litre of bottled water in the UK or the USA. Confused yet?

Here’s a silly idea - why don’t we cut out the winegrower and make some real money selling a thousand bottles of water?

The peak bodies of the wine industry have defined the industry in terms of cool climate coastal regions vs. warm climate inland regions. But, the consumer doesn’t care about the climate of the region of production – they value price and quality.

But, if we extend this industry definition to the analysis of serious data, what we discover is that the highest value coastal regions create 4.3 times as much economic value and 5.5 times as many jobs “per grape” as low value inland regions.

Now, I want you to think like a business owner for a minute - if you owned Australia, would you want to invest in those that create more value, jobs and trade from wine or less? Would you use your scarcest resources to grow food or un-needed wine?

As it stands, SA Water is entitled to extract 200 GL – that’s two billion litres - of water from the River Murray for free every year. Even in drought years, Adelaide didn’t need a lot more than this because of local catchments.

Now, SA Water is building a 200 GL desalination plant to “drought proof” Adelaide for $1.8 billion plus annual operating costs in the hundreds of millions, whether the plant is in use or not. On top of that, South Australia has had to build new gas fired generators to make up for the expensive “green energy” that the de-sal plant bought. Most folks up the river think these are responsible ideas.

Instead of a de-sal plant, the government could have invested the same amount by buying water licenses totaling 200GL from unprofitable grape farmers in the Murray Darling basin by paying them above market rates of $2500 per megalitre for their permanent water entitlements.

Under this approach, these farmers would have been able to retire in dignity with their mortgages paid off or been able to purchase annual water to grow food on their land.

The entire national grape surplus of 500,000 tonnes of annual production could have been wiped out and the wine industry restored to a profitable level of production.

Australia would not have lost one calorie of food production.

And Adelaide’s water needs would have been met in perpetuity.

Now, here’s the pointy bit – after buying these water rights and solving the wine industries problems, the government would have still had $1.3 billion left over. This is almost enough to build the new Royal Adelaide Hospital without Macquarie Bank’s assistance. But, governments would have had to pick a winner.

So, whether you care about the wine industry, CO2 emissions, inland communities, the water supply, the health of the river, banker’s profits, better health care or your tax dollars, these choices matter.

The truth is that there has always been plenty of water in the river – we’ve just let the government allocate it very poorly. As Ronald Reagan once said, “if we put the government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years we’d have a shortage of sand.”

Which leads me to:

Big idea #5 - let the government do what it does best – collect taxes – and let the market do what it does best – allocate resources.

For instance - what if we put a $50 per megalitre levy on all water extracted from the Murray Darling system and put the money into a trust fund? If this seems like a lot of money, remember in Adelaide we pay $2500 per megalitre for city water.

Then the government could hold auctions where water license owners voluntarily tendered their water entitlements to be bought by the fund until permanent environmental flows were guaranteed on the river.

The levy would immediately drive the most inefficient and unprofitable water users to sell entitlements for the most efficient price, while those who stay on the land would have a permanent guaranteed water supply as well as incentives to invest in efficiency and quality.

The caveat to this would be for flood based crops like rice and cotton - we could give them free water in flood years. And, because water would be in the river all the time, floods would be more frequent and more water available for annual purchase.

This approach offers pain and gain for everyone. Everyone would have an equal incentive to be more efficient while guaranteeing Australia’s long-term food supply and the health of the river.

The reactions to proposals for step changes to current policies are predictable: “we’ll bankrupt farmers and destroy communities” and “we don’t pick winners.”

The short answer is this - we’ll get these outcomes anyhow – just more slowly and less rationally and with worse outcomes for taxpayers, the rest of the agricultural industry and the environment.

In Australia, the best regions for agriculture are mostly near the coast because they have more rainfall. This is also where it is cheapest to dig mines or drill for gas because of access to transportation. Unfortunately, this is also where 90% of us live.

Our best land and food security is being sacrificed for housing estates and mining because:

1) The government is usually the owner of the land and needs the money to fund infrastructure for bigger cities and mines

2) The government earns stamp duties and royalties from these projects, which it uses to fund infrastructure for bigger cities and mines

Does anyone else see a pattern here?

In McLaren Vale, the Labor government just sold land for a 1000 house estate on some of the best cropping and viticultural land in the world despite furious local opposition. An adjoining property grows grapes that end up in wine that sells for $250 per litre – 500 times the price of the drek produced by our tax incentivized middlemen.

The new housing estate will be on land classified as “low value” because the government only share-farms grain on it. The fact is that if agricultural land isn’t in highly valued use, it gets sold for housing.

The only serious solution is to embrace denser, smarter cities where the best agricultural land is ring-fenced in perpetuity from urban sprawl.

DUDLEY BROWN (LEFT) AT LAST YEAR'S TRACTOR ACTION DEMONSTRATION OPPOSING THE SA LABOR GOVERNMENT'S PROPOSED SUBURBAN DEVELOPMENT ON PRICELESS AGRICULTURAL LAND AT SEAFORD HEIGHTS, McLAREN VALE. ALSO PRESENT (LEFT-TO-RIGHT) ARE LAURA JACKSON (WE OPPOSE SEAFORD HEIGHTS), GRAPEGROWER JOHN HARVEY, PHILIP WHITE, AND PETER DAWSON (CHAIRMAN, AUSTRALIAN WINE RESEARCH INSTITUTE) photo LEO DAVIS

Having lived in California, I’ve seen the best and worst models for protecting valuable land in Los Angeles and Napa Valley. We have a choice.

In McLaren Vale – agricultural land has risen 30 times in value in the last 40 years. We have prodded the current government to embrace a long-term protection strategy for our best land after a five-year campaign. It isn’t law yet bit it’s a Big Idea we stole from the Napa Valley where agricultural land has increased in value by 300 times in 40 years under a similar protection model.

The nexus of interests between treasury departments, developers, engineers, construction companies, miners, unions and “planning departments” may be too strong for this to change. Maybe.

This leads me to revise Big Idea #1: Politics matter. But, politics - and politicians - could matter a lot more if we make Big Ideas political ideas.

Tedx is a brilliant forum to air the Big Ideas governments find unthinkable - taxing alcohol rationally, building denser cities, ending the dream of endless sprawl, putting levies on irrigation water, spending the proceeds to future proof our food and water supplies, protecting people without means from cheap ethanol, picking real winners, whatever.

This will only work if you leave Tedx and start thinking the unthinkable, saying things your neighbors won’t agree with, calling your MP every week (ask mine, I call him at least three times a week), building new kinds of community groups, blogging, writing, talking, and generally upsetting people. This also means bypassing traditional industry and policy structures.

Politicians, not bureaucrats, need to know that they need to change their policies or that they will be changed out at the next election. Voting for the party you have always voted for ensures that you keep getting these same crappy results because of:

Big Idea #6:

Politicians take you for granted and your silence as permission.

The truth is that you own this country. You are the person who can turn Big Ideas into political ideas. Politicians and bureaucrats are your employees. Its your job to make it clear what you want and to keep Big Ideas in the air and on the table.

It’s no fun figuring out whom to upset every day but neither is running out of great land, clean water or healthy food.

Or, good wine. Now, that would be disaster. Thank you.

02 September 2011

SAUVIGNON BLANC? GO KANGAROO ISLAND!

WHITEY RECKONS AUSTRALIA'S BEST SAVVY-B COMES FROM KANGAROO ISLAND. CLICK IMAGE TO VIEW CLIP OF HIS VIEWS OF TWO FAVOURITE EXAMPLES