“Sod the wine, I want to suck on the writing. This man White is an instinctive writer, bloody rare to find one who actually pulls it off, as in still gets a meaning across with concision. Sharp arbitrage of speed and risk, closest thing I can think of to Cicero’s ‘motus continuum animi.’

Probably takes a drink or two to connect like that: he literally paints his senses on the page.”


DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little, Ludmila’s Broken English, Lights Out In Wonderland ... Winner: Booker prize; Whitbread prize; Bollinger Wodehouse Everyman prize; James Joyce Award from the Literary & Historical Society of University College Dublin)


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25 December 2019

Nurse Betty makes healing move



Nurse Betty Clare Valley Grenache Rosé 2018 
$22; 12% ethanol; screw cap 

Rosebud jelly with the crunchy dust of summer in stony old Clare and a whiff of freshly-ironed, starched uniform from the days of Gossamer hairspray, before the death of hospital-grade stocking welts ... this is a lovely adult blush of a thing. Having spent so many years making the wines for the Jesuits at Sevenhill, Liz Heidenreich, of that rare Barossa Anglican family, knows the secret of the amount of Grenache that goes into Sevenhill's revered fortified altar wine to give it that rosey tint. The saviour's blood. That's a responsibility. Now she's out on the loose, making her own typically fine Heidenreich wine from her family's old vineyards and other purchased fruit. She's a master at finding the flavours; how best to entrap their complexity and delicacy. This baby, from her less spendy Nurse Betty range, is as dry and resilient as her hospital sense of humour, healthy and well from two successful careers back. But it leaves a little lozenge shaped bud of a secular fleshy flavour and feeling I should only describe as the work of a deeply caring soul. That's Grenache, and that's Liz! I coulda used a big infusion of this delightful haemoglobin in the chemo ward ... 

With Liz and David O'Leary, who visited at the height of the weekend  bushfires.