Bordeaux-based Kangaroo Island winemaker, Jacques Lurton at Wirra Wirra with the Fleurieu Heritage barrel-fermented Fleurieu Peninsula Semillon Sauvignon blanc he made there in 1990 ... photo Philip White
But in the wine biz, stuff changes. Vinding-Diers was out of luck, perfecting his take on the whites of Graves just as white fell from favour in the Bordeaux markets and many there began making cheaper, more approachable reds. After stints making wine all over the world, he's now in Sicily, making, among other things, good old-fashioned Shiraz.
The two sets of wine are chalk and cheese.
36 hours later this old wine is much more audacious. It has sharpened as it sucks oxygen, its butter and lime better assimilating into the dry bone china tannins and the acid seems more focused and austere. Overall, a much better drink. I left the recorked (better newer cork) half-full magnum on the veranda all night and half the day, so it's not really been refrigerated. I've never seen anything like this from the Hunter. Or France. Maybe a few Margaret River models come close. One can only dream of what it would be had it been screwcapped!
After all that air, the wine makes me lust to be at Wah Hing with the trippy prawn balls and salt-and-pepper eggplant. With this chilli oil:
Click here for Semillon Does Not End In O, the initial story in this short series on Semillon in Australia ... Wah Hing chilli oil photo above by Philip White