09 July 2014
OLIVIER KRUG AT PENFOLDS MAGILL ESTATE
Milton Wordley photograph
Olivier Krug gave a deadly dinner at Penfolds Magill Estate restaurant in the vineyard overlooking Adelaide last night ... personal highlights were the ravishing ethereal florals of the Krug Clos de Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2003 with snacks and bread (this brilliant Chardonnay reminds me somehow of the cucumbers in Issey Miyake); the scary fist in the velvet glove of Krug 2003 with ocean trout, potato salad and sea herbs; the sense-sousing pomegranate and chalk of Krug Rosé with quail, ginger beer and coriander; the wild sullen broodiness of the Penfolds Grange 1993 - the Ash Wednesday vintage of disastrous bushfire and flood - and the stalwart glory of Krug Grande Cuvée to finish, with mandarin, chocolate and carrot. They forced me to drink several of those when I arrived, come to think of it. That always helps. I finally ran for the car clutching my little take-away chocolate box, with artichoke, apple, honey and Penfolds Great Grandfather tawny dribbling wickedly down inside me, the beautiful winter rain whooshing about outside ... you couldn't get a better man for the job.
That's our job list above, and below, the great Henri Krug (1937-2013) showing Monnie Jansons how Grand Cuvée is built at Krug in 1992 ...photos Philip White ... and the Krug delivery truck in the winery courtyard in a leafy street in Reims
Penfolds winemaker Steve Lienert with whizzer Magill Estate châtelaine Jane Gibbs and Olivier ... the Whites listen with their mouths full, bottom ... photos by Milton Wordley